The 'Model 6' was completed quite some time ago, but I thought it might interest some readers to take a closer look at its evolution and assembly. Before we do that, I must repeat, - this is not a prescriptive 'do it this way' guide! In keeping with the whole 'D2W' site, the intention is to help (and maybe inspire) you to think, design, plan, and arrive at your own solutions to winding. I also stress, I am not selling these machines or making them available for sale. OK, let's take a look . . .
'Model 6' was inspired by a 'found' casting (shown at left). This was
originally used as a support in an industrial piece of furniture.
I saw the potential for this fitting to become a 'headstock' unit. The casting's pre-bored hole would accommodate a turned shaft and ball-race bearings, and I envisaged I could use machine screws and 'channel nuts' (my terminology) to fix it to the bed..
In the photo at right, are the other components that formed the basis for the 'Model 6'. The bed section was left-over from the drill powered lathe kit I had used previously to make my first Tailstock Winder (see Gallery). The tailstock used here was obtained way back when I bought one lathe kit, and a second incomplete lathe kit at a clearance sale. While the latter kit had some parts missing, I had almost enough pieces for two winding machines.
Below, are the 'channel nuts' turned on my metal lathe, then ground on a belt sander to establish the 'flats' that lock into the channel. The fasteners are 1/4" recessed head cap screws. Two access holes (hidden) were drilled in the lower part of the channel to allow access via allen key from the underside.
The Headstock with Faceplate and Pulley
Two, 7/8" O.D. ball race bearings were fitted to carry the main spindle, and these were fastened in place with two 1/4" grub screws threaded into the top of the unit. Overtightening of the screws had to be avoided or the bearings' roundness would have been compromised by compressing them into an oval shape. By sheer chance, the centre height of the headstock spindle and the tailstock live centre were exactly the same. Even so, some truing of the headstock was required to get it sitting square and parallel on the bed. Two aluminium 'hubs', or flanges, were turned to provide a fixing for the faceplate and pulley. Each of these flanges accommodates a grub screw for fastening to the mainshaft. The faceplate is recessed to accommodate the eyelet protrusions if need be. The holes accommodate my 'shelf stops', and the centre-pin is removable for pickups without a centre hole. The wooden pulley is grooved to accept a 3/16" 'O' ring as drive belt.
The Motor Box and Reed Assembly
An adjustable fibreboard plate supports the reed, and a small block on the plate, forms a case to enclose the soldered eyelets and wire for a neater appearance. The cable exits the cover/case, passes through the front of the motorbox, and is then fed to the socket - diagonally opposite (right photo). An inexpensive button magnet is inlaid in the wooden pulley. As mentioned elsewhere on this site, some trialing with reed and magnet is always necessary to determine ideal positioning. When correctly set up, a count of 'one' is logged with each sweep past the reed. (note: jagged picture edges are due to scanning limitations).
The Limiter Assembly
limiter assembly is based upon my previous designs and is fully
adjustable. I have made a triangular bridging span that
is locked to the bed via a 'channel nut' so I can adjust the position
(with allen key) as needed. It is also braced by the fact that the
lower piece of angle makes contact with the lathe bed frontside. Note
as well, the tapering shape (as with the cross-member) allows for
maximum travel of the tailstock towards the headstock.
The rear view (at left) clearly shows a small additional acrylic panel that serves to hold the screws and prevent 'free-turning'. Meaning, this small threaded acrylic panel with screws turned fully home, prevents unwanted screw rotation. The main screens are slotted to allow for movement left or right before positive locking into place via knurled nuts frontside. The inside edges of the screens have been smoothed and 'softened' to avoid abrasion on the feeding coil wire.
The Counter Set-up
The counter is my usual 'Ozitronics' electronic kit counter that is sold as 'basic circuit board and components only' kit. Recently added knurled knobs (at left) secure the counter for transportation. This counter can be moved from machine to machine, and the 'patch lead' allows for easy removal and reconnection. At right, the adjustable (red oxide color) reed plate. All my machines have reed plates to accept the plug-in counter. The button magnet in the pulley is also visible at right. Note - the counter power lead (from 12vdc. plug pack) is not connected at the counter panel in the left photo.
The Main Winder Assembly
In the above photo, all major components have been assembled on the
'bed'. Two grub screws are seen on the top of the headstock (it remains
possible to install two more at rear to spread the pressure if needed).
Grub screws should only be lightly tightened to secure the bearings -
overtightening may deform the bearing and have adverse effects on wear
and performance. The ball race bearings support the
main shaft which has been centre-drilled for the removable centre pin
visible on the faceplate. It is essential that the 'centres' of both
headstock and tailstock run true and are correctly aligned
The Board Layout
The above view shows the placement of various components (including
carry handles). The hand rest is my usual routed timber unit finished
with sprayed hammer-tone paint and inlaid with a piece of non-slip
matting. A fishing rod end 'eye' accepts the coil wire before it
feeding and tensioning hand of the operator.
Oh, . . .and for those with an eye for detail, - yes, the d.c. power lead isn't plugged into the counter socket, and the optical curvature in this shot does make some surfaces look slightly 'out of parallel' - not so in reality!